![]() 1/8" grout lines requires extremely consistent tile size. But with super skinny 1/8" grout joints, any variation in height will be more noticeable underfoot than with larger grout joints. If your tile is indeed flat, you can give it a go. On this size tile, a half overlap isn't recommended due to the higher potential for lippage problems. ![]() ![]() There is a depression that is about 1/16" over 24-30 inches or so in front of the tub that i was going to skim first with thinset and let that set up prior to going back over, but if you think this is not necessary and i can make it up when laying the tile then let me know.Īs always, thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my questions:wave: What I am really after here, is what are the tricks or techniches to use to get them really nice and flat? Is smaller ok?Īlso how long do I let the tile set up before i can grout? I havent decided the exact size of the grout lines but definetely 1/8" or smaller with TEC delorian grey unsanded grout. I also know to back burn (not back butter) the thinset onto the back of each tile, and to pick the first couple back up to check for coverage, looking for 80% or better and more like 100% at the edges.Īlso I am going to wipe off each tile with a damp sponge and clean water prior to starting to make sure that they are good and clean. I also did the trick where you hold the tiles back to back to see how flat they are and how much lippage may be inherrent in the installation based on the flatness of the tile. The floor is quite flat so I shouldn't have to play around with them too much. I wanted to know first, what type of trowel (notch size) I should select to make sure I have the proper mortar bed under the tiles. I am planning on using TEC Superflex thinset. I am setting 12" x 24" x 3/8" porcelain tile (emil ceramica) over durock. Sorry these questions must seem elementary to many.but I want to hit the ground running. You might want to consider one of the tile leveling systems - it will speed things up and likely give you a better result. A modified might have a longer pot life, but as a DIY'er, you'll likely need to mix small batches with those large tiles, as you'll be pretty slow getting them installed. On a large tile like that, you MUST backbutter the tile to embed thinset into the pores first, have a VERY flat floor, and ensure you get good covereage over at least the minimum (80% and all edges is the industry standard for the minumum - try to get more).Ī modified, even installed poorly might approach a good dryset bond strength.either done right is way more than necessary. Well, maybe not, because you can't likely spread that load out evenly over the whole tile, but you get my drift! How much bond strength do you need? Your house would fall down first, or you'd tear up the subflooring. But, if you take your 12x24" tile at the lowest bond strength for a dryset (unmodified), that's 36 TONS to shear it off. A good modified might end up in the range of 350-375. If you look at the manufactuer's specs for bond strength to various tile materials with their mortar, you'll find that for a good unmodified, it is typically in the range of 250-300# per square inch.
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